This past cold front was brutal but it didn’t stop me and my old surf bud Randy from getting in a two hour surf session on Saturday.
Upon arrival at South Packery, I parked next to Randy. We were the only two vehicles on the beach save for the Beach Bums who were huddled around a large fire up against the dunes to shelter from the North winds. No, that’s really their name, The Beach Bums, and they are proud of it.
The air temp was 35F, water temp 51F. The waves appeared well defined and clean but considering the temps, we were beginning to have second thoughts. I couldn’t even stay warm in my car with the heater on full blast.
After hem haw’n around, I finally said fuck it, gearing my mind for mission mode. I reached for the door handle just as Randy said, “let’s do this!”. Awesome! We were on the same page, out of what book is the question. Insanity Illustrated?
Luckily my favorite 3:2 wetsuit was dry and clean. Butt naked in the icy cold wind, I pulled it on, as well as gloves, booties and a cap. I kind of felt like a comic book hero with all of that neoprene on. Yet, In the picture, I look comical.
Still in mission mode, I sprinted to the water with my board under arm before sanity could intervene. I paddled out fiercely and I could feel my breath quivering from shock I assume. By the time I reached the break, I was starting to feel a little better, which isn’t saying much when you are still on the verge of hypothermia.
We scratched into some small yet clean waves at first. As the tide began to push in, the waves were initially bigger and had much more power. By this time we realized that we made the right choice to be out there as we got all of the super clean waves that we wanted. Some were stomach high an peeled perfectly to the jetty allowing us to roller coaster to the top and bottom, do cut backs and rail slides.
We had so much fun that we forgot about the cold and the time passed quickly. It was when the tide became a bit too fat and the wave intervals became longer that we started cramping up from the cold and began shivering again. So, we called it a day thus logging two full hours of surfing the coldest day this year so far.
I was so stoked!